Thursday, May 21, 2015

In the beginning ...



When its you and the water, nothing else matters. 

There is a complete joy and visceral reaction I feel being anywhere near the water. It is part of this world, part of us, part of me and such a world unknown to most . This was a trip like no other I've experienced. It encompassed seven days in Mexico with five of them being on the water or at our sandy camp as we kayaked around Espiritu Santos, an uninhabitable island that is a nature preserve.

Some of my fellow travelers had experienced this journey before, only 10 years prior, and the other newbies and I were hungry for more even before it began. The night we arrived we drove the 2.5 hours from San Juan del Cabo airport to La Paz, on the Sea of Cortez. The drive as it winded through the desert landscape up and down what they call mountains was easy enough with glimpses of ocean along the way but not much else. We stopped for a cerveza at a road side tienda just making it before they closed. People were friendly but people are usually friendly when we travel. I feel like it is a big misconception about the world that people are unfriendly. We're all just humans trying to figure this wild ride out and provide for our family while making new memories along the way. 

We pull up to this, our place of residency for the first and last day of our trip, Posada LunaSol. This started out as just a kayaking company, Mar y Adventuras, and they would take you out to the island and do the adventuring part less stylish. With success over the last 15 years they were able to expand into a full hotel with a perfect pool, a rooftop patio, and an eating area where they provided food to varying degrees. I loved all the potted plants, mostly cactus in the most color pots. Everything about this place was great! 


I didn't know what to expect in the beginning, a wonderful adventure or disaster at sea but I was ready for it and looking forward to some much needed time away from the fast pace that is my life. The first day out we took a panga, the local name for a small power boat with a roof for shade but also for carrying kayaks, to our campsite at Esenada del Candelero. This ride alone was worth it all. The water so clear and a hue of blue/green not seen in the PNW, anywhere. The wildlife so present and healthy, birds soaring overhead and dolphins swimming below the surface. The sky went on forever with not even a spec of clouds to be seen. It was paradise, at least it was mine for the week. 



The beach camp was fully set up when we arrived. I mean the kitchen, a dinning area with shade, two toilets, and all our tents. All we had to do was unpack our bags, which they also brought on the panga and enjoy the scenery. We got time to relax while lunch was being prepared and soak in the beauty all around us. There was a cooler full of Tecate too, which went down like water as we absorbed the sun.


 

The food was the most unexpected thing on the trip. It was all amazing and freshly prepared in the kitchen tent by the cook, Martin, with the help of the other staff, Angel and Alejandro. Everything had been so thoughtfully planned out and the recipes could have been in a for sale cookbook. I would have bought one along with others from the trip. There was even a daily Happy Hour at 6pm which included a snack and cocktail in a pot. The first night we had a tuna chipotle dip and Pina Coladas.

 

 There were no fires either since the island is protected and you'd have to carry all the supplies with you. It is a dry desert landscape almost all the way to the beach and to easily perishable. The moon was on it's way to full so we were never in need of light. We sat around the table well into the wee hours enjoying each others company and chatting about the world around us. What a magical place this big ball of dust really is. We heard stories from Miguel and Marco about the history of the island and how people used to live here regularly with next to nothing. What luxury we had around us even though Pit and I forgot pillows. 

 We awoke to coffee on the beach. Since everyone is not the same pace of riser that I am, I got to enjoy a few moments of silence and some inward thoughts paired with movement. I watched more sunrises in that week than I had in the last 10 years. It was heaven, at least my kind of heaven.






After everyone had drank up the coffee and we'd eaten yet another glorious meal, we prepared to kayak. The first few days were easy little paddles around our base camp maybe reaching 5 miles in length and took a few hours. Everyone got a feel for being on the water and paddling with their partner. The more strenuous days of working the water were ahead of us.


I was surprised the first day out how hot is got on the water. I was thinking I'd be wearing my bikini but most of us were in long sleeves and a life jacket (mandatory). There was even a spray skirt that I wore most of the time to protect my legs from burning because the sun was so intense. During out paddles out we were followed by the panga. This was for safety but also became useful for a beer delivery system. 


Upon returning to camp, it was Happy Hour again and the nights events unfolded. It was easy living in a rustic environment paired with great friends, new and old, our bellies filled with fresh fish tacos, and the stars overhead. We packed up the next day and hit the water early to paddle 17 miles to the other side of the island. Yes, you heard right, 17 miles to get to where we were camping. It seemed impossible but it was glorious. 

We were going to Bonanza Beach. It was a 3 mile long beach filled with beauty. Of course when we arrived camp was set up and we were all ready to explore our surroundings. After the 17 miles, most of us were just ready for Happy Hour. 


 





Smoke and mirrors

The haze of smoke and mirrors Where nothing seems just right there's stains of life everywhere and I'm stuck in such a fright  ...