Sunday, September 21, 2014

More stories from around Marrakech

Marrakech is a rich city in terms of history and culture. There is just so much to see and do that we just couldn't fit everything in. We divided our time up so we could see many spectacular things and spent much time walking through the souks.

We woke up early to get to the garden, looking to arrive before the bus loads of tourists. Yes, we are tourists too but we are staying in the medina, the old city, and are able to walk everywhere. Large groups of tourists are a good thing for this country and its people but not for us. The lines the bus loads produce are daunting. It was Jardin Majorelle, a botanical oasis created in the 1920s and 1930s by a Frenchman. It has plants from 5 different continents and lots of endemic bird species. It feels like a different world once you are inside the walls, its bamboo forest towers over us as we start to walk around. 


It had many water features, a museum which was being renovated, and a little cafe to enjoy coffee or snacks. There are pots everywhere filled with plants, let alone the ones in the ground. This garden is well looked after, probably because there is an admission fee charged. 


The blue that is throughout the garden is called Majorelle Blue. It is named after the garden's creator and is a clear, intense, fresh blue. The name and color was actually trademarked and is now used in pottery, tiles, and houses throughout Morocco. I was able to find some of its color powder in a spice market and am hoping to paint some pottery back home. 


I would live in this garden and could see why the painter wanted to create such a place to enjoy. It is a nice change of pace from the desert that surrounds you. So vibrant and colorful, filled with lots of water features and shady spots, with so much positive energy. 

 
Our next stop was the Ali ben Youseff Medersa. It is a very well preserved 16th century Koranic school. A place that as many as 900 students would come to study the Koran. Students of the Muslim faith came from all over the world to live here, learn verses, and pray. It takes your breath away to see it, such devotion; from the large framed entry way to the large open courtyard. The details so thought out and methodically placed, everything having a meaning and symbols of faith. There is intricate woodwork on the top, detailed plaster carved out in the middle, and mosaic tiles placed around the bottom. 


The sleeping quarters above were tiny spaces, not much room for anything more than sleeping. They were basic, think college dorm room but half the size and some without windows. There were these beautiful open spots though where you could see below or above and the detail, again so amazing. What time it must have taken to create and then you think they had to put it all together to make the space what it is. In the 16th century it was all manual labor, no machines or cranes to help you. That is devotion. 


This door on the second floor led up to an open space on the roof. It was all walled in, so no seeing out, but the sky was visible from above. Not sure what the space was used for but I like to call them the steps to heaven.  


We wandered around, taking it in, then walked around the corner to the Museum of Marrakech. It doesn't look like much from the outside and is small in comparison to the Louvre, but used to be a palace and was built in the end of the 19th century. It's large open atrium contains the largest centrally hung chandelier-esque ceiling piece I've ever seen! It wasn't one piece but instead consisted of metal plates decorated with fine geometric cuttings. It was filled with some paintings, photographs, and artifacts from around Marrakech. It was a nice blending of old and new things.  






We finished our exploring and walked through the souks. These are the marketplaces where you can find almost anything. I love the organization, with everything having its section and place, so you can easily find things. You can get lost, which is fun, just wandering around taking it all in. You have to always be paying attention though because scooters are everywhere, a mule could be coming up behind you carrying anything, and there are just people walking in every direction. Lots of tourists but also lots of local people making there way to and fro. It is easy to get distracted and shop keepers were always close by, trying to talk to you and get you to take a look. Since this country was occupied by the French until after WWII, most local people speak French here, as well as Arabic. Once we said we were from America, we got "hello" and "see you later alligator".




We continue our journey to Fez, another imperial city in Morocco.

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